Thursday, September 06, 2007

So that's the end of that

I'm back in NZ, I'm not sure what everyone else thought of the blog, I had the best intentions to keep it updated but the countries I was travelling to didn't always allow this and the speed at which I went through central america meant it was nearly impossible to email home let alone organise thoughts enough for a blog entry. I like the idea that I can go back and read over it again like a flash journal with pictures but I know it's proabably more interesting for me than those left at home. The biggest problem I found with doing large chunks of it weeks or months after the fact meant I've left out the most entertaining bits when I thought at the time "i must tell so and so about that!" but it never made it to paper and I can't remember what it was or what city I was in! Anyway, better get onto planning the next trip!

This little piggy . . .

English Breakfast
9th Feb
100baht (NZ$4) for 2 eggs, toast, bacon and chips.
I sat on the beach a lot and got a bit pink. Then I cooked my own red curry chicken for lunch with help from the girls in the kitchen (I still have to pay for it) really simple to make and tastes great. Swimming this afternoon and pork noodles for dinner. Watched a movie The Cave, wasn’t too bad.
10th Feb
My last full day on Koh Payam
So of course I had scrambled eggs for breakfast, packed my bags and did some washing. I walked all the way to the end of the beach (Big Tree Bungalows down that end) then back to Baan Suan for a bacon baguette – I swear the food just gets better and better. I had an afternoon swim and more seabass (steamed with spicy, garlic and lime) for dinner and a movie with Jet Li and some X gamers? I had a couple of beers with Rasana and a chat about how her mother bought the land the bungalows are on for 7baht/rai of land (not sure how much land that is?) she started out growing crops then when the tourists started coming Rasana built the bungalows.
11th Feb
Travel day today:
Breakfast (fruit yoghurt and muesli)
Swim
Pack
Bacon baguette lunch
Motorbike taxi (ordered yesterday) to boat
2hours 20 min boat ride (hard wooden seats – wear a hat)
taxi to Ruangrat Road to pass the time at the market where I bought a Thai DVD I had watched some of on the island. Spent some time on the internet and managed to get 1 whole photo onto digitalmax!
Caught the 8pm overnight bus to Bangkok.
The 12, 13 and the morning of the 14th I spent shopping in Bangkok and I visited the Grand Palace and Wat Arun (a must see).
Shopped at MBK (Like an indoor, and therefore air conditioned, market 7 floors high)
Chit Lom and Siam Square (large multi-storied mall with lots of flash shops, and some really really flash shops – I just window shopped here! Bought almost everything at MBK).Then Caught 5:25pm flight to Sydney stayed the night then on to Wellington
arriving home on the
16th February 2007
Kathryn picked me up from the airport, so great to see her, then we drove to the Naki stopping for Subway on the way!

It's a strange feeling, very exciting to be home again to see everyone and see what's changed but it's also almost as if you haven't been away because not much has visibly changed and you almost wish it had because you have changed so much from being away and yet you have to keep reminding yourself that you did in fact travel around the world and have been gone for nearly 10 months because it's alomst too hard to believe. I know that makes almost no sense whatsoever but I'm going to leave it here as a reminder to myself in years to come of that churning feeling in my chest I don't like very much but couldn't live without.

Tuesday, September 04, 2007

Sea Kayaking

After my fruit and yoghurt breakfast I went down the beach to hire a sea kayak (2.5hours 200baht) It was a great day for it, a light breeze and the sun shining. I headed out to a small rock sticking out of the ocean on the edge of the bay and circled it to get a look at the birds and crabs then headed towards the other side of the bay (the end I was staying) and around the point where I stopped at a tiny beach. It was rocky but the water very clear and lots of crabs everywhere.


By this time I was getting quite hot and knew I had a long way to go to get home so I headed back, the wind had picked up quite a bit and my nice breeze turned into a head-on wind as I aimed for the beach. It took a while to get back but felt good to be out on the water and using my muscles!! I drank more than 3 litres of water before lunch too!! Lunch as it happens was absolutely brilliant, red curry chicken on rice at Baan Suan. Then dinner that night was fried seabass with a crunchy garlic pepper topping. I will be sad to leave this place!

This is the view from my part of the beach into the bay, you can see the rock
I kayaked around in the distance (not the far distance!)

The most important things I learnt in Thailand.

Never, ever put your hand (or your foot) into a dark place before (you are sure) nobody else is already happily ensconced there.
This goes for your clothes, hanging on the line or lying on the floor. Your bed – shake blankets and pillows before every use.
Check windows before opening in case large green cicada-like insects with obscenely long legs are out there, waiting.
Shine a torch on the ceiling to be sure no large wasps are laying eggs. (Although the geckos eating them are less of a worry.)
Look into the toilet, and the bathroom in general to ensure frogs have not taken up residence. Have a really, really good look inside the toilet water, the small pail with a handle in a large container of water for pouring in the toilet may just have a resident spider that refuses to be re-homed that insists on running up your arm when you want to flush the toilet.
And when you take a seat for dinner, check above your head – those ants crawling on the beam may not be much of a threat but once the lights go on and large beetles are smacking excitedly into the light these ants may become dislodged (and angry) and end up in your plate :-)

Monday, September 03, 2007

Relaxing on the beach

6th Feb
The only problem with staying here is there’s no kitchen for me to use so I have to order all my food, but there are a number of restaurants along the beach for me to choose from.
I had fruit, yoghurt and muesli for breakfast sunbathed for a while and went for a swim in the warm calm waters just steps from my bungalow. Then I walked along the beach, checked my email, watched a movie, had a few drinks of Thai rum and went to a party with free bbq down the beach (how many drunk people can you fit on a scooter driving along the beach??).
I love Thai scrambled eggs with toast, everything else I eat is very Thai but I like to have scrambled eggs for breakfast!!

Today I walked to town. The 'road' the scooters drive on is more like a footpath through the cashew trees from one side of the island to the other and north from the dock to beaches on the east coast of the island. So I stopped at "middle village" a restaurant partway over to the town where I had lunch (more Phad Thai) I had a look around the town, (little shops for food, some clothes and a bakery) booked a ticket out of there and a bus ticket to Bangkok on the 11th. I caught a taxi back to Smile Hut and walked along the beach to my place before taking a well deserved nana nap!

Sunday, September 02, 2007

We arrived back at Chiang Mai at 5pm and after a well needed shower and a lie-down we went to Utopia for a buffet dinner, where you got to cook your own meat.

Wednesday 31st January
I caught a minibus from Chiang Mai to Pai which took 4 hours (270baht VIP).
Pai is a small village so I walked down to Breeze of Pai as I had seen an ad on our lunch stop from Chiang Mai 300baht for a nice quiet private room with a hot shower towels and toilet paper included. I walked around town for a while and across the river then had a look at their small night market.
It’s February – almost home time!
Apple Pai
Slice of Pai
Pai in the sky
Utopai
Some interesting shop names!
I spent some time on the internet at 1baht/minute had chicken and potato “pie” for breakfast. Went to a nice restaurant called Duang for lunch and had fried rice, pineapple pork which was amazingly great and a lovely banana shake. I found a second hand Thailand book so I can try and figure out where I’m going next.
The next morning I walked up to the nearby Temple for a view over the countryside and Pai. It sounds strange but I had deep fried doughnuts for breakfast which is quite common here (would normally be a bit heavy but since I’d already been walking a while was quite good). I showered and checked out of my hostel and spent some time hanging out at Duang again, I had a spicy coconut chicken soup and they meant spicy! Caught the 1:30pm bus to Chiang Mai. And picked up a bag of sticky rice and spicy green chicken for tea before boarding the overnight bus to BKK at 8:30pm arriving at 6am on the 3rd. I caught a taxi to the Southern Bus Terminal and caught the next bus to Puachuap Kiri Khan at 8am after finding food and water (which was cheaper at the 7/11 across the road than in the station shops). Once at Kiri Khan I found a hotel then walked along the waterfront and saw my first Thai monkeys. I had wanted to go to the caves that the book claimed were nearby but it would have been too expensive by tuk tuk and it was too windy to visit the nearby beach. So I just looked at the day market, had a shower, then found my dinner at the night market where I had seafood on a stick and deep fried battered fish pieces (very puffy). While there I met James, an American who has been travelling a lot in India Thailand and Malaysia. He was very interested in my trip to South America and recommended an island of the coast of Ranong for a nice beach and a quiet atmosphere. We talked for a few hours then I was ready for bed.
This morning I climbed the steps up a nearby hill to the Temple there, there were a lot of monkeys. Locals were selling peanuts and bananas to feed them. There was a family walking ahead of me with a huge bag of bananas so the monkeys were all over the steps, I had a scary moment or two when one lunged at me with bared teeth on the 1.5m wide staircase. No way was I feeding the buggers! I also visited the Temple at the bottom of the hill but got scared off by the barking dogs. I checked out of my hostel and spent some time on the internet before getting a tuk tuk out to the main road to catch the bus to Ranong (which lucky for me was late as I had been told the wrong time!). Stayed at Sin Tawee (160baht) after a ride on a motorbike taxi from the bus station. Found a little restaurant for dinner after checking out the poor options at the market. My shower dripped all night . . . . .
At Pon’s Place the next morning I organised a bungalow on Koh Payam and had pancakes and bananas for breakfast. Then caught the 9:30am boat to the island (arrived 12:30) then a motorbike taxi to Baan Suan Kayoo at Ao Yai which is right at the end of the 3km long beach.

My Bungalow at Baan Suan Kayoo



The open air restaurant very nice, with a book swap. I had Phad Thai for lunch then walked down the beach to Hornbill Bungalows to use their internet.
28th Jan was the first day of a 3day trek, Richard and Jelle from my hostel + 8 others, Kiki and Ken our guides. We visited a temple and a waterfall and stayed the night in a Karen Village.
29th The 3day trekkers split from the overnight trekkers this morning a lot more actual walking today, just four of us including Ken so very relaxed, lots of pine trees. We swam briefly at one waterfall before eating our prepacked that morning, leafwrapped lunch of noodles, Ken made us all freshly cut chopsticks.
We arrived at a little village (6 families) where tea was cooked for us and we played with the puppies and had quick cold showers before it got too cold, also got to try what the locals (including Ken) were having for tea spicy egg with sticky rice – I love sticky rice. Not that our spring onion dish wasn’t great too!! (the green bits)

Rice Paddys

30th Jan
Made a side trip to another waterfall, bit cold for me to go swimming, then we just had a short walk to the nearby restaurant where we had lunch and headed off to do bamboo rafting and elephant riding. The bamboo rafting was fun we made a race out of it against another 2 groups the bamboo raft is made up of about 5m long bamboo poles lashed together until it was about 1m wide, there was a little seat in the middle and the guy that knew what he was doing steered with a pole in the front and someone helped out at the back, except we thought we’d be great at this so demoted the professional. The rafting is done on a narrow, windy and rocky stream so you need to be pretty skilled in knowing when to dig your pole in and swing the raft around, I was out by about a mm, I thought I had made it past a rock, so I took my eyes off it and instead met the water head first over the front of the raft!! Rather painful exit from my turn at captain but very entertaining for the other rafts!! It also meant we lost our lead but managed to gain it back again just before the finish line. Then off to the elephant riding, by which time I was regaining the use of my jarred foot. All three of us rode the same elephant, always female elephants, and don’t let them see the sugar cane or bananas before you get on or they wont work!

26th January

Packed and checked out, left my jeans/galabaha from Egypt and sleeping bag in storage at the hostel then spent 3 hours at an internet cafĂ© updating my blog, I’m still in France unfortunately so a long way to go to catch up! Plus emailed home. Caught an overnight bus to Chiang Mai (5pm from TAT office) ate in a 2nd floor market nearby before we left had chicken wrapped around a sausage and coated in cornflakes, very interesting. It was so cold on the bus, they gave us blankets and pillows but the a/c was on high and very noisy was sitting opposite it near the back of the bus. Was given a strange sandwich and a green sponge thing with a drink then we stopped at 11pm for dinner, noodle soup and a drink although I’m still not sure if I should have had both, instructions weren’t very clear to any of us tourists.
Today Melissa is 12 weeks pregnant.
I arrived at 4am in Chiang Mai was transferred to the Family Tribe Hotel (Booked at TAT office and went straight to bed. When alive again walked around the moat area of Chiang Mai (actually very large city but interesting bits in one area where most hotels etc are), visited some Wat then went shopping at the night market which was the best I’ve seen.

Wednesday

I didn’t sleep very well last night, probably still catching up on jetlag so stayed in bed till lunchtime which made me feel much better, especially after lunch from a stall next to the hostel where I had fish (“little hot” which turned out to be fiery for me!) with rice and deepfried sweet potato (or similar).
On Thursday I went to see Wat Po also known as the Reclining Budda

He had Mother of Pearl inlaid into his feet depicting everything from flowers to elephants.
That night I went to Patpong Market with Anne, a Canadian from my hostel, there was loads of rip-off brands, clothes and watches etc plus some pretty cool stuff clothes and lights.

Thailand

Monday 22 January
I arrived in Bangkok and took a very expensive taxi to Big John’s hostel 220baht/night with 20min free internet per day and 30baht off breakfast. I slept most of the day and ate noodles and pork at the hostel.
NZ$1 = 25 Baht
On Tuesday I had scrambled eggs for breakfast with real toast then wandered around the hostel area and got supremely lost. Managed to find my way to the Skytrain which I caught down to the Central Pier (Skytrain very neat and tidy can buy day pass for 120baht from machine or friendly lady in a box, passengers patiently line up to board after other passengers have disembarked, in other words the opposite of London!) Ate some great chicken at the pier and caught one of the regular boats down the river. I met an Irish girl called Laura on the boat and we went into China Town (18baht fare for express boat) where Laura bought some dragon tea then we caught a tuk tuk to Hao San Road which is where most of the hostels are located, very touristy and noisy and lots of young people. Not somewhere I wanted to stay. We walked back to the river caught the last boat back to Cantral Pier and headed to a vegetarian restaurant called Tamarind near my hostel. I had Vietnamese summer rolls and phad thai, quite expensive but very nice and posh. Made it home for a shower and bed ~11pm
All in all a fun and exciting day with lots to see!

Friday, August 31, 2007

Aswan

Monday 15th January
Aswan - Philae Temple and the Aswan High Dam (not that impressive) and the Friendship Tower (very impressive)
Dinner at the restaurant on the river wasn't very good, but the icecream and fireworks were great.
It was an early start on the 16th to get to Abu Simbel
Interesting story of how they moved the temples, small but well preserved no photos inside though (Pete found a kangaroo! Mick found a jandal)
Brent Pete Justin and myself went on the camel ride that afternoon on the west bank, loads of fun, camels much better behaved and gentler ride than I was led to believe, still a lot of rocking back and forth but big cushy seat to sit on.
Then we met the rest of the group interested in Kitchener's Island with the 'botanical gardens' and no less than 55 cats. While we were there some trees on the other side of the river caught fire threatening boats moored there, the police with a water cannon came to the rescue.
We had dinner on the west bank in a Nubian village (they don't name their villages) on a rooftop, the fried chicken very good.
The next day we had a free 1/2 day so had a look at the markets checked our emails and stocked up on supplies for the Felucca trip.

Not well enough supplied obviously cos we drank all the beer on the first night! And absolutely no luck nicking beer of the other tour groups moored near us!
The next day was slow to start not helped by the crap breakfast then we stopped for three hours for lunch??? A few more hours sailing then camp again, drum beats and dancing and sleeping on the boat (forgot to mention that!) Finally got BJ and CJ to talk a little, but as they had distanced themselves from the group somewhat this didn't redeem them in the eyes of all the group (I can't hold a grudge of course!).
The next morning we reached our final land ho and visited the Komombo Temple with it's mummified crocodiles then the convoy to Edfu Temple which is the best preserved (I didn't think the best though) there is some damage from smoke and all the gods above the old sand line were scratched out.
When Auguste Mariette first began the clearance of Edfu Temple in 1860 CE, the temple had become a village filled with stables and storehouses, the roof of the Sanctuary area covered in mud-brick houses, and the inner chambers filled with rubbish almost to the ceiling.
Courtesy of Marie Parsons http://www.touregypt.net/featurestories/edfu.htm

After the convoy to Luxor we had a few Isis rooms for the afternoon to shower and rest in, we visited the markets and had Italian for dinner at one of the Hotels resaurants before boarding the night train to Cairo.

Arrived 6:30am on the 20th in Cairo and checked back in to the Pharoahs Hotel for breakfast and a shower before we headed off to the Cairo Museum from 9am - 12pm There was a lot of great stuff there, but very jumbled and all over the place and not very well labelled.
Had a couple of burgers for dinner at the hotel and called Ma&Pa.
21st Jan
Called Kathryn this morning then said our farewells
60EGP to get to the Airport with a dodgy taxi driver. My flight to Bahrain at 2:45pm (1 hour ahead in Bahrain).
Arrived in Bahrain and booked a hotel for the night, the photos of Bahrain looked gorgeous, went to check out the options for flights to Bangkok as had originally planned to stay a while in Bahrain but wanted to get to Bangkok sooner but only flight available was that night so I went back to cancel the hotel and booked the flight and caught a 10:45pm flight to Bangkok (9hr flight).

8th January


Drove most of the morning stopping at about 2pm to set up camp near Limestone rocks, had a walk around climbed a nearby hill to watch the sunset. Played a drinking game around the fire but it didn't work very well. I think we are the kind of group that needs to get to know people better first, so Justin the guide very disappointed as he's a big drinker. Had a warmer blanket tonight so not as cold still 0 degrees but no wind tonight, lots of snoring coming from the group!!
9th Jan
Stopped off at a small village to see a local artists house and to buy H2O. Then it was a long drive to El Kasr a little town in the desert, we were pegged to stay on a rooftop there, but as there were no other guests we could sleep inside on the crazy rock hard wonky beds, Julie's was missing some important slats and Grant and Nicole's threatened to break at any moment. They supplied dinner for us which was very good. Also got to have a shower - it was even lukewarm! After my shower while everyone else was playing cards or showering I went for a walk down the main street (Pete was already off wandering around). All the locals were very friendly, saying hello and welcome, only a few unsavoury advances, I was invited to talk to a young woman with children who I had passed earlier (her sister was very bold). While sitting there with them trying to exchange information Peter and Scott walked past, then Amanda, Dwayne and Brent. None of us spoke any Arabic but they brought over a 15year old girl who spoke very good english her name was Marawa (she also spoke french). They all wanted to know who was married to who, Amanda and I must be sisters, how to spell all of our names etc. Marawa was quite taken with Scotty (not married = available but twice her age) The longer we talked the larger the crowd grew around us, especially children. One of the Elders was a bit upset with us taking photos so we thought it a good time to leave.
10th Jan
up at 5am and straight on the truck to get some miles covered then stopped for breakfast at 9am on a helicopter pad in the middle of the desert, our police escort parked a suitable distance away. Made it to Luxor, stayed in some rooms at a campground, better beds, separate rooms with private bathrooms, same price for room or tent space go figure!
All piled into a few taxis to go to the markets, we were required to find galabahas and head scarves to wear out tomorrow night, so a few of us stuck together to strike a better bargain, mine was bright blue and a white headscarf. A lot of great stuff at the market, lots of jewellery and fabrics. It's a nicely paved area with all the little shops crammed with stuff and the owners sitting outside hassling the tourists to come into their shop. "Australian? Australian!" "Very lucky man" "Very beautiful wife" "What you looking for?" "You buy jewelery?" over and over at every shop all down the street!
11 Jan
Visited Karnak Temple and Luxor temple
Won't write much here because the photos tell the best story. All the temples based on the same structure of Open Court (where everybody welcome) an inner court filled with pillars most often carved (for the priest and nobles) and the Sanctuary (holy of holies) where the statue of the Temple's god was placed.

Carved deep into a pillar


Then we had to meet the Convoy to Hurghada at 2pm and we were off to the Red Sea! To get from one city to another tourists must join a police escorted convoy. I am unsure how this protects the tourists as anyone wanting to harm them would know exactly what time and where they would all be conveniently together!!
Once in Hurghada we got dressed up and went to Pappa's Restaurant for dinner (the other tourists thought we were hilarious!) At Pappa's you can buy a metre of beer, i have photos to prove it, a metre is 11 glasses of beer in a wooden holder only NZ$20. THen we went to Ministry of Sound Club.
12th Jan
We had the option to Quad Bike this morning which I decided against and headed down to the beach to see what the water was like. It was really really really windy, there were a few people sunbathing but the white horses didn't urge me to get my gear off!!
13th Jan (Saturday)
Yay for us no wind and calm seas so we headed out snorkelling, it was loads of fun heaps to see, the water was warm and clear, some of the others thougth it a bit cold but if you were moving it was ok, spent 1.5 hours in the water, got cut a bit on some coral, wish I had bought a waterproof camera, am even more keen to learn to dive now, the phots Justin got of the dolphins were great. The lunch on the boat was great (may be due to extreme hunger?) Julie has become Rashgirl (like an anti-superhero) she wasn't long in the water before she said her skin felt funny so she headed back to the boat where she came out in big welts all over her skin the boats captain was very kind to rub oil all over her skin for her!
That evening we caught the 5pm convoy back to Luxor arriving at 10pm to the Pyramisa Isis Hotel, pretty flash really! And we were so exhausted we needed it!
I have nothing written in my diary for the 14th Jan?? Still in Luxor, think we went to the markets again?
Aswan tomorrow.

Cairo, Egypt

January 7th 2007
Up at 6am to pack and meet up with Tour guide to sort money etc (everyone else did this last night at pre-tour meeting), I was also introduced to the truck and her driver.
After packing up the truck with luggage and supplies we headed off to see the Pyramids of Giza and the Sphinx. Amazing how they are in the city only 10min from our hotel. Loads of tourists but very interesting, our first taste of heckling by the Egyptians. Brilliant Buffet lunch overlooking the Sphinx and Pyramids although some of the group opted for KFC!?!?!
Then we headed into the dessert, never to be seen again . . .
Kidding. Slept under the stars (<0deg)
Everyone else on the truck is an Aussie except for the tour guide although he's lived in Oz a long time. Mostly couples, newly engaged (while on trip in Africa) and newly married (eloped to Las Vegas at beginning of holiday) guy and girl (Brent and Julie) travelling together as friends, 1 guy (Scott) by himself. 17 of us in total. All split into teams to deal to cooking cleaning and packing while in the desert. Food pretty good although Egyptian flat bread very dry. Milo with breakfast!

Thursday, August 30, 2007

The Amalfi Coast is Gorgeous!

On the 3rd Jan we caught a train and a bus to the Amalfi coast south of Naples on the West coast, staying the night in a little place called Atrani. We walked up to some villages nestled in the cliffs and watched the moon rise, then walked down to Amalfi for dinner. The wind was blowing a bit and the windy road a bit scary at times but came down via dark staircases so more danger of tripping than being run over.
The next morning arrived bright and sunny so we caught a bus along the coast to Sorrento, the road is skinny and follows the coast so a few times we were stuck in a traffic jam because the bus couldn't fit past another bus or truck and one would have to back up (not always obligingly!) There's the option of hiring a scooter but I wouldn't advise it after seeing a few close calls with scooters vs cars!
From Sorrento we caught a train back to Naples and 6 small rooms.
The next morning 5th Jan we were up very early to catch a city bus to the train station for a 6:30am train to Roma. Once there we went to the bank, did internet stuff, ate and got on our respective trains to our respective airports. Peter's heading direct to Cairo while I go via London. Stopped in at Shona and Lloyds (Shona very sick poor thing) to pick up some of my things, do washing, buy a sleeping bag and repack, I sent a box of things home (long wool coat from Ireland not likely to be needed in Egypt and Thailand!). Then flight to Cairo and the Pharoahs hotel.

Tivoli Saturday 30th December

The town not the Fountain, not sure of the relationship, anyone have any ideas?
We caught a blue cotral bus out to Tivoli for the day, quaint little place with stand your spoon up in it hot chocolate and low cost too, we got a bit lost out the back blocks and too early for the market but nice to have views of the countryside and be away from the city.
Pete on a train to Naples this afternoon.
Sunday 31st
I spent all day in bed except for a 20min excursion to the supermarket for food/drink where I nearly fainted (managed to get served before sitting in a corner until the world came back into focus). Managed 40min out of bed from 11:50pm until 12:30am to see some fireworks, very noisy and not very pretty.
Monday 1st January 2007
Rome
Sleeping
2nd Jan
Train to Naples met Pete at the station found the kiwi chick from xmas eve by chance at the station. Stayed at Hostel "6 small rooms" run by Aussie Jenny. The girl on reception: "the cat's name is Simon you can kick him if you like" not a big cat fan! Small place, large kitchen with stove! single beds, linen included, breakfast included. Markets for lunch: cheesy buns, hot chicken and chips. Walked around old city of Naples.

Wednesday, February 14, 2007

Boxing Day

26th

Met others for a tour of Vatican and Museums at 9am. South African couple from yesterday also there (he's an underwater mapping geologist and she's in advertising for a woman's surfing magazine). It took 1/2 an hour to line up to get in and get headsets. Ryan a great tour guide, so much to see so he picked out some interesting bits was a 2km walk from the Pinecone statue at the front to the Sistine Chapel at the end. Turns out there were a lot of dodgy Popes. Loads of people crammed into the Sistine chapel lots taking illegal photos, poor guards didn't stand a chance. St Peter's Basilica, touched St Peter's right foot. Had lunch in the square then some more people watching, before walking back to Enjoy Hostel for rosemary potatoes, stirfried veg and meat + dessert (room 4 has a table and benches) then early to bed.

Ryan at the Jubilee Door



Tivoli Fountain

27th

Used my new wheelie bag to move to Stargate Hostels, closer to train station and Peter's Hostel. Turns out the wheelie bag was not a great success, the wheels are too close together so the bag keeps rolling. Has a kitchen (the hostel not my bag) but turns out there's no utensils cos they keep getting stolen.

Went to Pantheon where we got an audio guide but turns out we weren't that impressed with it, amazing feat of architechture or not.

Looked everywhere for a photo shop to clean Peter's camera of stray hairs showing up in photos. Took lots of photos at dusk of the birds coming in to nest, very cool but not very good for photographing! Caught a bus home for free to save our feet.

28th
Nice day walking to the Spanish Steps and Tivoli Fountain then on to Circo Massimo and St Maria in Cosmedin (the mouth of truth) then the metro home for €1

Threw this one in as am practising reducing the size of Peter's photos so it doesn't take so long to load, I think it's working!

29th
Phone calls today, sorting Egypt Air tickets and Kumuka for Peter so he can come to Egypt lots of time spent on Internet printing and photocopying then had to find office of Egypt Air to book. Whew! Ate a lot the last few days at our favorite place with the best calzone ever, absolutely huge and more like a pie than inside out pizza with loads of chicken or beef.

Merry Christmas!

Bacon and eggs for breakfast, I love how that sounds so great, but we ate standing in the tiny kitchen at my hostel, cooked over tiny camping stove and no hot water to wash up in. But still tasted good. Problems with phones so ma and pa couldn't ring, wasted the morning and missed our meet-up with the kiwi's from last night, and were late to St Peter's so missed the Pope's speech. Pete did manage to talk to his family though which was good! Sat and people-watched, eating croissants, chocolate and mandarins, lots of happy people photos (children chasing pigeons).
We stopped for a strawberry and lemon Gelato and a Tartufo (chocolate ball with cherry and rum centre) in Piazza Navona on the way home. Delicious!

Me in Piazza Navona seconds before getting kicked off the table because we weren't eat-in!

22nd December

Pete to Sienna
Train to Rome for me via the slow route €15 11am - 3pm
Met a lovely Greek Couple, helped me with my bag when we arrived but unfortunately my dodgy strap broke (they we very sorry poor things!) so it was a long walk to the hostel which was a long walk away anyway! Back a bit sore now! The Bank was closed wandered around some markets and found a big Supermarket so could buy some proper food.

23rd Bacon and eggs for breakfast cooked in hostel. Rome dirty but a sunny day, wandered around some sites Colosseum etc.
8pm Pete arrived he's stayng at Pop Inn, my choice and better than mine (which I booked months ago) go figure. Always remember to Validate your tickets, buy a ticket get it stamped in the box before you get on the train and then it's checked by the conductor on the train, no validation = big fine!!

24th Sunday Christmas Eve
Checked out:
Republica Fountain
Vittorio Emanuelle Monument & Museum
Colosseum - did a tour so skipped the lines took 3000 photos then had a super expensive cheese sandwich and drink €9 they charge that much because the tourists pay it!
then did Palentine Hill Tour with bro Ryan (awesome) Pete's tip: Don't back slow race horses.
Met nice South African couple
Piazza Navona to see markets. Potato pizza and veges for dinner then on to Vatican City where we met some kiwi's Susie, Kylie and Alex, stood around in St Peter's square for hours while those with tickets lined up for entrance to Christmas Eve Mass.
Walked home at 12:30 not long after it started (big screens set up outside to watch)

Tuesday 19th and into Italy

Drove into Nice to drop the car off - do NOT recommend anyone, ever, drives in Nice, although since it seems you can park anywhere (ON a corner included) I guess you don't have to walk far!! Stayed the night in a super cheap deal of a hotel, breakfast included, turns out it was cheap due to the main road right outside but after a stressful day and a bath I slept well.
The next morning we caught the train to Florence, changing trains in Genova (Genoa) and had lunch in our first Italian Bar (pasta and salad). Then a train to Pisa where we walked to the Leaning Tower, quite hard to get good shots in the dark, but cool to see.
In Florence we stayed in a dodgy hotel, with no lights in the stairwell (3 flights up) but a lovely evening walk around the city all lit up with fancy lights.
21st January
I went to the Academia Museum, to see David, then to the Uffizi Museum which was absolutely amazing, so much great stuff, rooms of displays of Da Vinci's experiments and drawings, books and paintings, as well as a great range of sculptures and paintings. Bought a book on Da Vinci for my Uncles (will have to borrow it off them to read!!). I left Pete to his own devices and he spent most of the day lost. I even managed to climb the Michaelangelo Hill for a great view of the city and a bronze replica of David but Pete couldn't find the hill!!??!!
We met up for dinner just down the street from the hotel (Hotel La Noce) at a restaurant called Zaza lovely little place with great pasta.

15th - 18th

Stopped in Begnac and climbed the hill to a church where the bells didn't stop ringing, discovered a funeral so didn't go inside, headed back down the hill and met an old man fishing the river, spoke no english but was very friendly showing us the fish he had caught and posing for a photo.
Across the river was Castlenaud, stopped in Sarlat, Domme, Caussade and Galliac on the hill, Castres where we stopped at the information centre to find a place to sleep. Finally made it to Carcasonne and after a few wrong turns and repeated phone calls to the hotel for directions we arrived at Balladins, possibly the most run down hotel we've stayed in, long day driving.
Shorter drive the next day to Orange, stopped along the way in Nimes to see the arena. Found a great B&B the other side of Orange in a tiny place called Camaret, the woman had made a 6 foot tall christmas tree with chicken wire and paper napkins, must do this next year.
Had dinner at a restaurant in Prange called La Rom'Antique, for the two of us; a tomato sorbet and carrot soup for starters, chicken with lemon potato and salmon for main, crepe and creme brulee for dessert.
The next day we drove to Grenoble at the base of the French Alps where we stopped at yet another information centre and then walked the streets, bought cheese, fruit and bread from the markets. Then drove to Vizelle to eat lunch and visited the (free) French Revolution Museum. Stayed at the Pavillion Hotel in Gap, B&B we had hoped to stay at (and Pete read the map perfectly to direct me there easy as) was closed (Murphy's Law).
Mon 18th drove to Barcelonette with a plan to continue over a pass before heading down to Nice. Unfortuantely all the passes in the area were closed with snow so we had to back track a little along the Napoleon Road. We drove 10km up the side of a mountain (30min later) arrived at Croix-Roudoule a tiny place with a population of 25 people in winter. Unfortuantley this meant the two B&B's we had been given the names of were closed. We met a nice lady that spoke a little english and helped us out with calling other places around about but we couldn't find anything so headed down the hill again and managed to find the information centre just as it was closing (timing!). Found a little place that was a restaurant too and bad pizza and salad for dinner (best French pizza so far, but not hard to beat the others we've had). Then we tidied the car and vacuumed and packed all our stuff in preparation for our last drive tomorrow!

14th Dec

The post names have become very boring, when I have time I will be more imaginative - i promise!
Drove from Cerveix Cubas through Hautefort and Le Lardin to Montignac, was a bit foggy stopped at the tourist office and had had some polish toffee (fudge), the dog from the restaurant warming himself there. Picked up some bread sticks so I looked like all the locals . . .

Pete got dog poo on his shoes (sorry no photo of that!)
The town flooded in 1960 to 11 m, marked on a building by the river. Old man walking past (with his bread stick) told us this, reinstating our faith that the french really are lovely!
Drove past some rock caves on our way to Les Eyzies unfortunately Grotte Grande Roc and Laceaux were closed (for christmas).
Found a bed at a B&B in Tursac - a nearby village, as it was still quite early (yay found somewhere to stay while still light!) went for a tiki-tour to Manaurie and La Bugue. Waited for restaurants in Les Eyzies to open for dinner but no luck (doh!) so headed back to Le Bugue for the crappiest dinner possible. Alphabet soup (would you believe!) with bread, then a slice of pate (?) and the main of cow and vegetables, the waiter tried to explain but we ended up thinking the meat was from the cheek of a cow, it was nasty. Then cake and custard for dessert (sounds ok but they still managed to mess that up!) . I had some red wine and Pete agreed to drive, coffee came free so he had some (small super strong shot). Unfortunately the coffee didn't stop Pete taking us the wrong way, it did mean that we got to see a deer though (quicker reflexes with the coffee too!!) .

Friday, January 26, 2007

13th Dec

Foggy morning, disgusting squat toilet (and like everthing else we have a photo of that too!).
Turned off before Rochefort to Saintes and Angouleme to Perigueux where the post lady showed us the way to the information centre because she couldn't explain it, the signs in France messed us up again, pointing in both directions at an intersection when what they really meant was it was behind us! Stopped at Pierrot Gourmet and tried some of their 'black leg', smoked with sweet chestnuts (chataigne) for 36 months, 150euro per 100grams, Peter and I shared a cup of cheese and vegetables, very nice (very cheesy), the bacon was very fatty and almost slimy. Ate quiche for dinner in our pub room in Cherveix Cubas near Hautefort. We went down for a beer and the owner offered us a seat which we thought was great, then he got up and left us there! I guess some french have to live up to their unfriendly name!

St Malo 11th Dec

A very windy Monday morning. Walked the walls of the 'old city' nearly got blown away.
then the drive to Mont Saint Michel an abbey and small town perched on a small rocky outcrop. Abbey cost 7eu each entrance then we walked around the tiny town that is now mostly expensive restaurants, hotels and souvenir shops.
Started to rain, and getting dark so headed back towards Pontorson (cheaper hotels). Got a list of open hotels from the tourist office, but turns out everyone was having an earlier than usual Christmas break! After going back to the tourist office and getting the lovely (reminded me a lot of Jessica - face, hair, hands) girl there to call the rest of the list until she found a B&B out of town on a farm in a little place called Vessey. Sweet lady that didn't speak a lot of English welcomed us into her house which had an overpowering smell of apples. 30Eur for the both of us for the night including traditional French Breakfast.
Tuesday 12th Dec we headed of before sunrise hoping to see the sunrise over Mont St Michel. Almost didn't make it however as Pete was still dreaming and driving on the left side of the road (not that I was paying enough attention to notice either on the small country road!) We now have a continuous mantra after every driver change and turned corner of "stick to the right!" and Pete is banned from early morning driving.
The sun lighting the sky over the Abbey was lovely and of the hundreds of photos we took hopefully there will be a good one! Back at the B&B we had our special french breakfast that was reminiscent of every other breakfast in france, bread with jam, coffe and hot chocolate (not that I'm complaining about that bit) it was made somewhat better by the large selection of homemade jams and marmalades (hence the apples), and we had a great talk with the lady of the house. Turns out I am her first ever New Zealander in 18years of running a B&B!! Then we had a quick nosey at the cows and calves in the sheds before heading off on the long drive down to La Rochelle. Booked into the Auberge de Jeunesse (Youth Hostel) for 30eu, separate dorms for boys and girls but they gave us the wrong keys so I scared the absolute crap out of the elderly Spanish man in Peter's room when he thought he would be sharing with a girl (I wish I had a picture of the look of shock on his face he was literally speechless poor bloke!). After calming Hoshi's nerves Pete and I set off down tot he harbour to see the 3 towers (Chain, St Nicholas, Lantern) back in the day they pulled an enormous chain between 2 towers to protect the harbour. Had a lovely dinner in flash restaurant for 19eu each. I had the fish soup, steak and chips and the sorbet for dessert (delicious) and Peter had the mussels in a curry and creme fraiche sauce, cuttlefish and chocolate mousse. Also tried the house white and rose wines, which were a bit on the harsh side.

Blois

Went for an early morning walk to check out Blois at sunrise (about 8am so not that early).
Bought the best bread sticks (still) at a little bakery round the corner from the hotel, then went back for more, they were only 0.75eu each with ham and cheese and they were warm!!
Headed back to Chambord, got an audi tour, interesting helical staircase but such a huge place and a lot of the rooms not used and others not as impressive as Chenonceau. Pity about the fog as the views from the top of the Chateau would have been great.
Then it was off on the big drive to Saint Malo on the coast. Again struggling to find the hostel, drove right past it (wish the book had told us the name of the complex!). 30.80 euro 3 bed dorm with private bathroom and breakfast included.

Paris - Tours

Took the train (my dicount card 50% off).
Went for a walk around Tours at night quite a nice 'old city'. Had really bad pizza at a cheap restaurant, booked a hire car over the internet and called home. Hotel 27euro for a twin room
Saturday 9th December
11am picked up car from Europecar - Toyota Yaris
stick to the right!
Headed straight out of town towards Chenonceau Chateau expensive at 9eu each but pretty impressive built over the river Cher.
Stopped in the town of Montrichard then on to the Chambord Chateau to watch the sunset (too late to go inside). Struggled a bit to find a hotel in Blois as it was dark, the ones near the train station expensive so drove round trying to follow signs that just dont work the same as at home. Seriously, if the sign is not at the intersecion, but a bit before, if you are supposed to go straight ahead the arrow points to the left (the sign's on the right hand side of the road), so sometimes we're just not sure if it means left or not! Stayed at Hotel Belany 37euro with 2 double beds.

Reims and back to Paris

Said like 'rance'
Stayed in very nice hostel that's not really a hostel, more long term people from the school.
Met nice Canadian girl that leant me her computer so I could call home via skype.
Pommery Champagne tour and tasting, need to get me some of that - unfortunately not in NZ (yet). Good explaination of how champagne made at their website www.pommery.com

Champagne bottles, marked with a code number, will sit here for 6+ years.


5th Dec Train from Reims to Paris, headed to diff hostel, Peter already there (Aussie I met in Brussels)
6th Dec Peter and I went walking to see some sights, I had the best hot chocolate in the world (with a price to match) at Angelina's near the Louvre. Dragged Peter to the Musee D'Orsay then climbed the Eiffel Tower - stairs to the second level then lift to the top, were there early but luckily could go inside out of the fierce wind, watched the sun set and all the lights in town come on, pretty impressive.

7th Dec Did the Green bus tour of the city, 4 loops all connected, headphones to listen to the commentary in your chosen language, raining lots in the morning so stuck inside the bus - not worth it as can't see a lot. But cleared up in the afternoon so while still cold wind and wet seats managed to see a bit more from the top, also made for a good video of the Arc de Triomphe.